Animal Care Advice

Pet First Aid Kit Checklist: What to Include and Why

What to put in a pet first aid kit, what each item is for, which numbers to keep handy, and why we leave out peroxide and human medicines.

Pet First Aid Kit Checklist: What to Include and Why

For information only. This article supports, and never replaces, an examination by a veterinarian.

In this article

    Pets get scratched, cut and hurt at the least convenient moments, and sometimes the most you can do is keep them safe and comfortable on the way to the vet. That is the whole job of a veterinary first aid kit for pets. April is Pet First Aid Awareness Month, but a kit is worth putting together in any month, and it doesn't take much.

    Keep one thing in mind before you pack a single item. As the AVMA's first aid guidance for pet owners notes, first aid is not a substitute for veterinary care, but it may help your pet until they can get that care. Everything below is chosen with that in mind: each item has a simple, safe job, and none of them replaces a call to your veterinarian.

    Pet first aid kit checklist: phone card, papers, wound cover, saline and gloves, small tools, sealable bags and handling gear
    Infographic by I Love Veterinary

    Phone numbers and paperwork first

    In an emergency, the right phone number matters more than any bandage. Put these on a card at the top of the kit and save them in your phone:

    • Your veterinarian, including the after-hours number if the practice has one.
    • The nearest 24-hour emergency veterinary hospital. Calling ahead lets the team get ready before you arrive.
    • ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center: (888) 426-4435. It answers around the clock, every day of the year.
    • Pet Poison Helpline: (855) 764-7661.

    A consultation fee may apply when you call either poison line.

    The four phone numbers to keep in a pet first aid kit: your vet, a 24-hour emergency hospital, ASPCA Poison Control and Pet Poison Helpline
    Infographic by I Love Veterinary

    Add a few papers in a sealable bag:

    • A copy of your pet's medical record, including vaccination records and a list of any medicines your pet takes.
    • Your pet's microchip number and the name and phone number of the microchip company. If your pet isn't chipped yet, here's how microchipping works.
    • A recent photo of your pet, in case you get separated.

    For cuts, scrapes and bleeding

    These supplies cover and protect a wound until your vet can look at it. They are not for treating a wound at home. AAHA advises checking with your vet before you try to clean anything that is more than a scratch.

    • Gauze pads and a gauze roll: to cover a wound and help control bleeding. In a pinch, a gauze roll also works as a makeshift muzzle.
    • Nonstick bandages: to protect a wound without sticking to it. A poorly applied bandage can do more harm than good, so leave bandaging to your vet if you're not sure.
    • Adhesive tape and self-adhering bandage wrap (vet wrap): to hold gauze or a bandage in place.
    • Sterile saline: to gently flush an eye or rinse a minor scrape, then call your vet. Don't use human eye drops unless your veterinarian tells you to.
    • Disposable gloves: to protect your hands.
    • Scissors with blunt ends: to cut bandage material safely near your pet's skin.

    Small tools

    • Digital thermometer: to take your pet's temperature. Ask your veterinarian to show you how, and what is normal for your pet.
    • Tweezers: for splinters and other small objects in the skin or fur. Never use them on something in your pet's eye. Gently flush the eye with saline instead and get veterinary care right away.
    • Eyedropper or needle-free syringe: for flushing with saline. Don't give your pet anything by mouth unless your veterinarian tells you to.
    • Small flashlight: to get a clear look at eyes, small wounds and splinters.
    • Sealable plastic bags: if your pet may have eaten something harmful, collect any vomit or chewed material and bring it to the vet.

    Handling and moving an injured pet

    • Muzzle: to prevent bites. Never muzzle a pet that is vomiting.
    • Spare leash and collar.
    • Towels: for wrapping and restraining a cat, cleaning, or padding.
    • Blanket: for warmth, or as a stretcher to carry a large dog.
    • Pet carrier: a good way to move a cat or small dog.
    Your safety matters too. A pet in pain can bite or scratch, even someone they love. Don't hug an injured pet, keep your face away from their mouth, use a muzzle if they are not vomiting, and get help to lift or move them.

    If your pet seems to be going into shock, keep them restrained, warm and quiet, and take them to the closest veterinary hospital right away.

    What we leave out, and why

    Some kit lists online include hydrogen peroxide, rubbing alcohol, human medicines and medicated creams. We leave them out. Both the AVMA and AAHA's pet first aid kit guide say not to use hydrogen peroxide on wounds, and AAHA adds alcohol to that list. Medicines and creams are a different problem: whether your pet needs one, which one, and how to use it is your veterinarian's decision. If your vet recommends a specific product for your pet, follow their instructions.

    What to leave out of a pet first aid kit: hydrogen peroxide, rubbing alcohol, human medicines and medicated creams
    Infographic by I Love Veterinary

    If you think your pet has been poisoned, call your vet or a poison line before you do anything else. Don't give your pet anything and don't try to make them vomit unless the vet or poison expert tells you to. Bring the product packaging with you. To learn what to watch for at home, see our guides to yard plants that are poisonous to dogs and human foods that are toxic to dogs.

    Keep the kit ready

    • Use a sturdy box with a lid. A plastic food container works well and keeps things dry.
    • Store it where you can grab it fast, and out of children's reach.
    • Check it about every six months. Replace anything expired or used, test the flashlight batteries, and update the paperwork and phone numbers.
    • Pack a smaller travel version for the car. Before a trip, add the number of a 24-hour emergency veterinary hospital near where you're going, plus water and a collapsible bowl.
    • Consider a pet first aid class. AAHA recommends taking a certified course, and the American Red Cross offers a free Pet First Aid app that also walks you through building a kit.

    When to skip first aid and go

    If your pet has a serious injury, contact your veterinarian or the nearest emergency hospital without delay, and don't try to fix it yourself. Call on the way so the team can be ready when you arrive. The same goes for burns, anything in the eye, signs of shock, and a sting followed by swelling, vomiting, trouble breathing or unusual tiredness. Your kit buys you time and keeps your pet comfortable. Your vet does the rest.

    Sources

    This article is for general information and is not a substitute for advice from your veterinarian.

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